June 7, 2005:
Voila! Here we have my 1968 mustang, for which I have been rapidly acquiring parts and materials to begin my restoration. I just bought it recently, and boy am I anxious to start work! Updates to follow.
June 15, 2005:
Oh yeah ..Amidst all of that fun, I also (FINALLY) became a legal driver. Took me long enough, given that I was eligible about four years ago
If only the mustang wasn't in pieces.. I'll be driving it as soon as i can weld it back into a respectable driving conditon. Till then, I guess im stuck with the jeep and truck. poor me. haha
June 16, 2005:
Alright, its long past time to revisit my Mustang.
First, a recap: After a long search, I was finally able to get my grubby little hands upon a 1968 Mustang - and only after another failed attempt. I came across my pretty pony during the last week of May, and secured its purchase on the 26th for $750 - not so bad for a thirty-seven year old car in not-so-terrible shape. My father and I had a hell of a time finding our way up the long and winding road to Claverack, New York. That was a frighening ride into Deliverance country..the hills upstate are deep in the heart of hickville - and full of the kindest people in the world. As our pickup and tandem axel trailer bounced around corners on dirt roads, we finally arrived at the resting place of my car - a dairy farm home to three hundred cows and forty-seven cats. Secured on the trailer, payment made, hands shook, and directions exchanged we were off on our way home. We left at four in the afternoon and arrived home sometime after midnight..my was that a trip. Trailer offloaded, it was time for bed.
I was just dying to get started, but then a certain meddlesome video got in the way - ahem! So, instead, here I am, finally ready to begin.
Keep reading...
Some general facts about the car:
- Make: Ford
- Model: Mustang
- Year: 1968
- VIN: 8T01T205770
- Door/Dash tag: 65A, R, 2AA, 15, 4, W
- Built at: Metuchen (Edison, NJ)
- Bodystyle: Hardtop, ragtop
- Engine: 200 CID - 1V, 6cyl
- Consecutive #: 205770 (very late 68 model)
- Body series: Hardtop - standard-trim bucket seats
- Exterior color: "Highland Green"
- Interior trim: Charcoal Black crinkle vinyl w/ "kiwi"-pattern vinyl
- Axle ratio: 2.83:1 "conventional"
- Transmission: "C-4" automatic
This car has power steering, blinker hood and a floor console. From a cursory inspection, it has been hit on the passengers front and in the rear bumper-taillight panel, and it shows some minor crumpling of the sheet metal as a souvenir. There's rust on mostly all of the exterior panels. The front frame clearly reflects the climate, the fact that it is made of mere sheetmetal, and the car's age. Ah, but the rear frame and trunk - au contraire! They are surprisingly very solid. The frame rails in back look like they were simply dirty..very little surface rust. This car also had a vinyl top which was removed..consequently, the now exposed raw steel has been through quite a battle with mother nature - and what appears to be the sap from whatever pine tree it was stored under. The interior is missing the kick panels, rear seat side panels and seat belts, but otherwise it is complete, excepting the original am radio. The interior matches the exterior in condition including the console. The engine runs (needs a tune up) and the transmission shifts forwards and reverse. The power steering works and the brakes work good enough to move the car around. And thats all she wrote for my original quick looksee.
Yes, yes, I know what you're thinking - what a wimpy engine!! Yah its a 6, yah its inline, yah its only got a 200 cubic inch displacement, and yah that only amounts to 130 horses or so. I'll live with it for now, until i get the car in decent enough shape for me to notice the engine. Until then, its largely a stationary body in need of some major TLC - more on that later.
I've had a week and a half or so to think about how I'm going to approach the restoration of this car. I think I'm going to keep it stock for now, or as close to it as possible. Money restricts the purchase of NOS parts of course, and the non stock parts that are in there at the moment shall suffice until i replace them. I wouldnt consider a 289 v8 engine or even a 302 outside of the realm of possibility - I could always get the proper VIN tags reproduced or swiped from a junk car...not that I'm really going to take this out as a concours car. Plus, who doesnt love the throaty rumbling of an 8? It may seem silly, but this will be my daily driver car, and I see no reason to stay stock with a purist's anal attention. I think I may make this a sort of stealthed modernized Mustang - original AM radio with slit for cd, a wiring system capable of supporting the speaker system for which my audiophile ears yearn, etc. Some neat possibilities: a five speed AOD tranny in an old C4 housing?? perhaps little photoresistors interfacing with a crafty automatic headlight circuit?? also important would be a decent means of preventing theft. rfid chip activated in proximity to the dash? We'll see...all of that is very far down the road.
Anyway, back to the present reality of things. (blech) The engine started, and now it wont. Here's the story. Last week, Dee and I went for a walk down to the beach, got distracted by some vinyl records in the trash (PEOPLE DONT THROW THESE OUT!! you make me sad), and decided we'd had enough exercise for the day. We wandered up the street, me figuring that I, the beast, could show her, the beauty, the car. (she likes mustangs just as much as I do :) mmm, yet another reason why I love this girl). Yeah so anyway, I refilled the radiator, checked oil and tranny fluid, and threw in a battery and decided to start the engine for ms redhead...didnt work. A little fiddling later, and with a roar we were in business. I brought the 6cyl up to a decent rpm, and then backed off out of pity for its roughness. Off goes the engine. I go back 10 minutes later to restart it to move it back into the garage....nothing. ARGH! I tinkered for a while, and yet nothing would help. I just ended up pushing it back into place. Twas a sad day. Recently I went back to do some investigating...the underdash wiring is a mess. The last person who owned the car (not the seller, who simply salvaged it - thanks Ken!) screwed it all up. Looks like the ignition switch went bad so they bypassed it with a switch, and then put in another when that wouldnt work. So I whipped out my trusty fluke multimeter and did some troubleshooting with the wiring - Ignition switch through the firewall checked out (I ignored the 87 ford blazer relay I found under dash and tried not to be pissed off). The wiring is good out to the coil, the distributor, alternator. Continuity and voltage at all points when key is turned in ignition. Chewing my lip while thinking of another angle of attack, I leaned on the passenger's front quarter panel near the battery and happened to feel the cable ..it was warm. The damn relay welded itself closed!! Yet another mark on the To Do list.
Today, I did a much more thorough inspection of the car. I wasnt exactly thrilled. It seems like the floorpans were replaced at some point in the past...but damn what a halfassed job! They might need to come out. The trunk and rear are still as solid as I originally thought them to be, but its quite clear that the rear quarterpanels have had far too much of their structure repaired by bondo and bad fiberglassing. They need to go. Luckily, just some surface rust on the new(??) floorpans..I might save them. Lordddy is the transmission loose. I was leaning on the driverside windshield support while trying to turn the ignition and the car lurched forward -- while in PARK! Time for some blocks in front of the wheels. Judging by the amount of surface rust INSIDE of the car on the top of the floorpan, I'd have to say that the cowl vents are leaking...oh joy, 240 spot welds to drill out - I can't wait. There are about 10 scattered rust holes in the roof - all ranging from less than a quarter inch to the size of a dime..those are easy to patch and the least of my worries. Becauuseeee: the front frame rail extensions are shot, as are the front torque boxes (an absolute mess). Frankly, I'm surprised we drove the car onto the trailer without an issue. They look frighteningly weak. Firewall looks surprisingly good, as does most of the front end - some slight issues where the angled arm support braces for the bumpers are attached. Oh, and about that halfassed floorpan job? it looks like they left the edges of the old one exposed, happily rusting away and eating into the new ones. Grr.
The verdict: total stripdown of the car to the frame.
I need to:
- replace all of the wiring,
- rebuild the heads,
- replace the manifolds,
- rebuild the wimpy 1 barrel carb (the choke broke - no wonder why it idled so rough),
- rebuild the transmission (though I will certainly first try that band adjustment suggested by Justin),
- drill out waaaaaaay too many spot welds to replace the cowl vents so nothing leaks,
- replace the front frame rail extensions,
- replace the dash (its warped beyond recognition),
- clean out the driver's side door and patch it (its rusty from where water got in at the long failed weather seal),
- cut out and replace a good deal of the frame near the steering linkages and torque boxes,
- fix up the floorpans so repair what was done wrong with them to begin with (and hope that I dont have to replace them too..yuck),
- fix the roof (maybe replace the vinyl??? I might just let it be a hardtop),
- and I should basically get new rear quarterpanels...theyre too far gone,
- replace the starter relay (though i can bypass it for now).
- replace the 87 blazer radiator that doesnt belong, and possibly the starter motor for the same reason
- ...and a multitude of other things that I am certain will be added to this list before long.
Mmm, well it seems that I've got my work cut out for me. Not sure whether I should jump for joy at such an engrossing project or whimper, run off and hide. Updates to follow.
October 18, 2005
Ok it's been about three years since my last update, or close enough. Too lazy to check at the moment. Following is a brief summary of my progress with the beast as of summer's end. For reference, check out the gallery of photographs thus far documenting my progress.
In rough chronological order, I:
- Started the engine, twice, then...kaput. Starter and solenoid fried
- Spent some time under the dash, eventually leaving feeling disgusted and wondering what moron hacked it up
- Stripped the front end of all exterior sheetmetal
- Once able to see more of the underlying structure, gaped at the fact that the car SURVIVED the trip from upstate NY in Claverack
- Removed hood, hood hinges, fender supports and bumper
- Stripped engine compartment of all wiring and electrical components
- Removed carb assembly, throttle/choke cables, and steering pump from engine block
- Pulled the engine and transmission
- Towed the car around the corner to my house from my grandpa's (MANY THANKS for the space!)
- Brought the engine and transmission around the corner too
- Separated them and put the engine on a stand (SOMEONE REMIND ME TO OIL THE CYLINDERS AGAIN AND PUT MORE ANTIFREEZE IN THERE)
- Drilled out 60% of the spot welds holding the radiator support and the front fender aprons
- Jerry-rigged (well, not so much..its welded) a dolly out of a 1/4" steel plate and heavy duty casters with ball bearings
- Bolted the "dolly" to the transmission mount, because i dont trust the structural integrity of anything forward of the firewall
- Jacked everything up onto jack stands
- Removed the wheels and most of the suspension
- Stripped the interior of seats and carpet
- Pulled the doors
- Wept over the condition of the driver's side floor and wondered how on earth it held my weight
- Realized through my sobs that I should test the cowls and began preparing myself for the very likely need to drill out 240 spot welds
- Poured some water into the vents. Noticed some lovely leakage flowing steadily onto the floorpans. Swore a bit.
- Realized that it was mid august and school was approaching
- Cut some of the engine compartment away
- Spraypainted all exposed metal with etching primer
- Stuffed parts into the interior
- Covered the car with a massive tarp
- Belatedly uploaded pics to the website, made a gallery script, and posted everything here.
- Left for school and put everything on the backburner
To-Do list for Fall/Winter 05
- Order all parts required to rebuild front clip and doors
- Carefully create plan of attack for time after the spring semestre concludes
- Over winter break,
- Send out engine block for cylinder boring
- Take a stab at transmission repair
- Strip each door and recondition interior
- Weld in a patch of the lower doorskin and potentially replace inserts
- Replace all weatherstripping and recondition chrome/windows
- Relax when possible
If you're actually interested (or bored) enough to still be reading this, the following might be of some interest if you have a 1968 mustang coupe, fastback, or convertible; however, it does apply to most other cars of the era too. Read on for some annoying practices by lazy mechanics.
A conversation between Justin and I, archived and resurrected purely for YOUR benefit:
sax0913: some moron mechanic cut access holes in the shock towers to lube things up
sax0913: so its been serviced at least once in about 40 years lol
Justin DeMaris: lmao
Justin DeMaris: wow..... lol
sax0913: well that (sadly) used to actually be standard operating procedure
Justin DeMaris: :-/
sax0913: i cant understand why
sax0913: well
sax0913: i take it back
sax0913: i see why - its easier and cheaper
sax0913: but its stupid
Justin DeMaris: lol
sax0913: mechanics have their massive grease guns
sax0913: ford designed a tiny opening with a fitting for a needle grease gun and printed directions in the ford service manual
sax0913: mechanics said 'wtf mate?' and used the big guns anyway
Justin DeMaris: lmao
Justin DeMaris: steve you must blog that
sax0913: lol why
Justin DeMaris: b/c that is the perfect thing to put in a blog rofl
sax0913: haha ok
Justin DeMaris: its a comment on the way things are / were done that might enlighten others!
sax0913: lmao yes, and all of three people will understand what im talking about
sax0913: you
sax0913: me
sax0913: and some random dude who happened to find the site by accident
Justin DeMaris: hey hey hey, we gotta start somewhere lol
If you happen to have an older car with such symptoms on your shock towers, you should inspect them THOROUGHLY for stress cracks and other damage. If they are lacking such damage, consider yourself lucky, but by no means spared. This ailment will someday strike you, and the only remedy is replacement. So then, get your welding rig warmed up or call in favors with that mechanic buddy.
That's it for now, I believe. Do check out the gallery of photographs thus far documenting my progress. They will be better organized around Thanksgiving when I have some time.